This is small, loud, packed elbow-to-elbow foodie joint serves what is easily some of the best food in Texas. It also is aggressively post-modern. A pea soup included fresh pea pods and tendrils, but also cubes of gelatinized bacon and grilled lamb bologna. Tiny halibut cheeks were served with square dumplings, cubes of pork belly, and some sort of foam. Best of all, slow scrambled eggs were infused with uni (sea urchin) and toped with shitake mushrooms.
Portions are small, but prices are low. So it makes sense to get at least 3 plates. The wine selection is intelligent and food-friendly, but the beer list is even better. A Left Hand Milk Stout was a fantastic pairing with chocolate soup with little spheres of intense raspberry jelly.
If you like chefs who play with their food -- and especially if you like beer -- you will love this.
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