Always a surprise to come upon delectable food in elegant surroundings in a small town in the back of beyond as I did here 2 hours north of Big Bend National Park. It's the dining room of the lovely Holland Hotel. It offers an expertly prepared selection of soup, pasta, game, steak and rich tasty deserts. With wine, dinner can run to $50 for one. I ate for $25 by ordering two good sized appetizers and desert. The service is informed and friendly, the atmosphere a throw back to the days when country hotels and their dining rooms were travel destinations. The restaurant is brand new, however, and it remains to be seen whether its high standards can be sustained.