In addition to the many ryokans in Kyoto offering their own kaiseki dinners to guests, there is also a staggering number of Michelin-starred restaurants in Kyoto offering the same! Luckily for us, we obtained help from our hosts at Salon Tenseian Haraguchi, who, after sympathetically weighing our preferences for personable service and authentic cuisine without the obligatory and ubiquitous nod to "fusionism", suggested Gion Maruyama.
Our dinner here was truly a memorable experience in exquisite service, culinary precision, and rarefied aesthetics!
Food: We have had tasting menus elsewhere in the US and in our travels, but our kaiseki dinner at Gion Maruyma took this "tasting" concept to a new height, with considerations not only of taste but also of aesthetics and other sensory perceptions as a whole. Our dinner on this evening in early December started with Shogayu (hot ginger juice), lightly sweetened with a surprising bite of spice and heat; and a sip of fragrant warmed sake: We were awakened! Our first course was a stunner, a ginko nut with a few slices of beef, oyster mushroom, and taro all resting on a magnolia leaf to be cooked over a heated slab of stone ... And so our dinner progressed, layers after layers of tastes and textures, carefully constructed with thoughtful reminders of the season both in the presentation and in the ingredients: a golden-red maple leaf here; a melon soup there; a ripened persimmon somewhere in between; visually stunning ceramic plates and vessels; and crabs for this winter evening! Indeed, one of the highlights of our meal was crab cooked over a small grill in the courtyard just outside our private room, served with nuggets of sweet rice similarly grilled to a golden and crispy crust, followed by Kani-miso, a most unusual "soup" made by mixing sake with the fatty innards of the crab, all heated in the crab shell over the grill: what a thrilling and heady way to taste the "deconstructed" crab in this manner, to appreciate individually the sweet meat, briny juice, and rich fattiness --the last a reminder of a long hibernating winter! As an example of the chef's sure hands, we were served crab again later in the meal, this time the female snow crab with its roe, simply cooked for a singularly bright taste: no taste duplication here!
Service was exemplary. As mentioned by previous reviewers, our reservation included a thoughtful exchange to establish our food preferences and menu price range selection. We opted for a private room and were treated to a spacious and warmly decorated room with a low table and chairs and with a view onto our own small and artfully landscaped courtyard. Reception was very kind and polite; there were 2 staff members lavishing attention and care on us 2 throughout dinner, not counting the staff from the kitchen who grilled our food just outside our private room. At the end of the meal, our hostess stepped in to say "goodbye", as did the chef himself who very graciously inquired how we had liked our dinner.
In offering Gion Maruyama to his guests, Mr. Yoshio Maruyama does not just provide his guests with the culinary pleasure of a kaiseki dinner, but he also creates for us a gustatory and sensory tour de force to remember.