Confession time: I tend to run a mile at the mention of Fusion Cuisine - a “French take on a Balinese classic” or “Teriyaki Rabbit with truffle oil” feature heavily in my own private culinary hell. So it was with trepidation that I inspected the menu of a restaurant that apparently named itself after the philosophy behind these loveless marriages. However, the menu at Fusion offers very few (con)fused culinary traditions – clearly defined sushi gives way to distinct dishes of apparent authenticity. The feel of the restaurant is classy dining in a spacious and beautifully lit space. I ordered a combination plate of sushi and received a pretty presentation of Sashimi (red snapper and horse mackerel), Maki Rolls (Californian soft rolls and Tiger’s Eye) and Nigiri Sushi (crab and yellow fin tuna) – whilst I could almost smell the carbon footprint of these jet fresh offerings, they delivered a fine variety of tastes and textures. Apart from, that is, the crab – a crabstick tied to a lump of sticky rice by a band of seaweed is still just a crabstick. The quality of my main course was more consistent – Korean Bulgogi tenderloin that had been delicately marinated and grilled perfectly to the medium rare that I had requested. The meat gave way under the slightest knife-pressure and provided a mighty, mellow melt in the mouth. Unfortunately, the promised chilli and coriander finish was entirely missing and the dish suffered as a consequence with the nicely seasoned sauce tending increasingly towards a cloying distraction to the sumptuous tenderloin; the addition of more Gochujang paste in the marinade would have been welcomed. Washed down with a glass of fresh, but uninspiring, limon nana made for a pleasant if somewhat underwhelming meal. As Fusion is hidden within the Le Meridien hotel and the meal was topped by an amuse bouche and tailed by some complimentary petit fours, I expected to have amassed a considerable bill – in this, at least, I was not disappointed.
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