Dissident lives up to its name indeed, they are actively challenging an established policy of the majority restaurants in Moscow: “do not serve any good wine by glass + red wine by glass should be served at 17-18C” and it is located OPPOSITE the former KGB (now FSB) building in Lubyanka square. Actually they have spectacular view of the building. You can sit on the smallish terrace with small tables for two and overlook the large Neo-Baroque erection with a facade of yellow brick designed by Alexander Ivanov and augmented by Aleksey Shchusev from 1940 to 1947. The Lubyanka was originally built in 1898 as the headquarters of the All-Russia Insurance Company. In Dissident they serve almost 150 wines by glass, some are very expensive but you have a superb choice and there some good under-10€ -a-glass wines.
The wine list is beautifully printed in a form of old general ledger book and contains about 300 names (if the wine is not available – there will be a red “NOT available” stamp on the right side of the list). And then you have a substantial number of hand-written wine names (recent addition I suppose) at the end of the list. So there is good ground to call themselves Vinoteca after all.
We had Albariño (Pazo de Barrantes 2006, 12€ a glass) and Italian Sauvignon Blanc Quarz 2008 by Terlano (30€ a glass). I liked Italian SavB as it is different to the French or NZ options, Albariño was not bad either. Food exceeded our expectations. It was more of a brunch for us, we were not too hungry but enjoyed the every bit of out meal. Pheasant and chanterelle soup was outstanding. Home-made gnocchetti with pheasant and morel mushrooms sauce were less exciting, but veal kidneys in Dijon mustard sauce made our day. No room for desserts this time. Finish your meal with Graham’s Six Grapes Porto (350 RUB) and you are good to go. I have to mention good service and very knowledgeable but unobtrusive sommelier, which is a rare case in Moscow.
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