Who would have thought that you would find an amazing museum filled with pre Columbian ceramics in the basement of a gas station in northern Peru? Well, this place exists and it is the Casinelli Museum in Trujillo. Mr. Casenilli, an Italian imigrant, began collecting pre-Columbian ceramics in the 1940s and in the early 1970s he decided to open a little museum in the basement of his gas station. There are about 1500 objects on display at any one time (out of the 6,000 or so objects in the collection). There are no locked glass display cases. Everything is right out in the open where you can get right up to an object for close observation. The guide even let me blow into a couple of 1500 year old musical instruments! There is an amazing display of Moche erotic ceramics that is behind a wooden door. Make sure the guide shows you these. Those Moche were something else!
It's well worth the short cab ride to go to this place. One of the best museums I've been to in a long time.
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