Lake Titicaca became famous as a tourist destination for its floating islands, but Amantica is an untouched corner of Paradise on Amantani Island, well worth a visit and stay. It was our favorite experience in Peru, of equal enjoyment to visiting Machu Pichu.
Built on the side of the Island, and conceived of by French architect and a local man named Oswaldo, is a dreamy sustainable lodge, built with the support of the community.
This lodge is a two-room private luxury paradise accommodation, perched unobtrusively on the side of Amantani island, where the rocks meet the clear blue lake, in-between the snow capped mountains of Bolivia and the edge of Peru.
It takes two hours by car and boat from Juliaca, and around three and a half hours to reach the lodge by lake, from Puno, but the journey is as beautiful as the destination.
My partner and I chose to take the Belmond Andean Explorer overnight train from Cusco to Puno, where we were picked up in a car and taken to the port. A (very slow) boat and Simon, our guide, were waiting to take us to the Uros islands and on to the lodge.
Amantica offers two forms of accommodation; “all-inclusive;” (which includes transportation to and from Juliaca/Puno, excursions, drink/snack access, and meals), and “basic” (which includes welcome drink, meals, and accommodation only.) We chose “all-inclusive,” as it made arranging transport easy.
The primary feature of the lodge is the gorgeous views and floor-to-ceiling glass walls, with two way glass, so that you can see out, but no one can see in.
At night, the walls become a planetarium, showcasing the stars and sky so clear, that you feel you could touch the Milky Way.
The crown jewel of the lodge, besides Chef Daniel, is the gorgeous giant stone tub with a waterfall feature and open shower next to two-way glass.
When we arrived, Chef Daniel had some delicious guacamole and plantains waiting for us, as well as other snacks and champagne. Oswaldo walked us through our excursions for the trip, and we planned a loose schedule together until they left us with walkie talkies so that we could rest. They let us know we could call for anything we wanted (several of the staff live on the property or a few minutes away and have a ninja-like ability to only show up at the appropriate time).
The meals were delicious and hand crafted, beautifully presented with authentic local fresh ingredients. You can eat them on the deck where there is a beautiful private table with a few, or up in the dining area.
Upon arrival, we rested on the deck in the sun for a bit after our long journey and then got ready to go on our community visit. It was the life around the lodge and the view of the Quechua people through the eyes of our guide Simon that really caused me to fall in love with the island.
There are no cars, few stores, basic electricity and most of the inhabitants are in traditional dress. Simon told us about growing up on the island while we observed some local children playing soccer at the school Simon attended when he was a boy. The island is immaculately kept, and what struck me most is the way that it functions. The 800 families on the island are separated into ten communities who work together, even taking turns to help pave each other’s walkways.
There are beautiful sunset hikes, a coca tea ceremony with the local shaman, kayaking, fishing, star gazing, cooking lessons, and many other activities to choose from.
Or you can simply relax in the sun.
Damien, the manager, is lovely to communicate with, and makes sure your visit is flawless, personalized, tailored to your taste, and seamless.
One of the best things about the lodge is the amazing handmade meals from Chef Lanier and Anita. Each carried a unique fusion of local Peruvian dishes with the chef’s take on Peruvian-Italian and Peruvian-Chinese fusion based on his experience growing up in Peru, working on an Italian cruise line, and working under chefs of many backgrounds.
This was the perfect example of sustainable tourism at work: when tourism is in balance, the place changes you, as much as you do it.
Highly recommended for a two-three day visit, or a longer retreat. Perfect for couples, a family, or a solo artist or writer retreat!