I spent three nights in Taman Negara, two in Kuala Tahan, one in a cave in the jungle.
Kuala Tahan: beautifully positioned on the other side of the river from the national park, but is full of tourists - no locals in any of the restaurants for example. Fine as a gateway to the park, but I didn't want to linger, which is a shame because the surroundings are stunning.
Getting there: got the NKS bus from Kuala Lumpur (you pay for the bus and boat together) which was fine, but overpriced. Can be done more cheaply independently, but worth taking the boat from near Jerantut one way (I took a local bus from Kuala Tahan to Jerantut on the way back - 7 RM)
Canopy walkway: costs 5RM, is fine and can be easily done yourself (though many companies include as part of an overnight package). Unlikely to see any animals from here and probably missable.
Jungle trekking: The jungle is incredible. I didn't have proper gear so decided to go only for one night in the jungle itself (I would spend several nights, but would have wanted to prepare properly for anything more - for one night though no special preparation needed). We spent a night in a cave in the jungle and did a night walk there, then had lunch the next day by a river and swam; would definitely recommend this, so long as you don't mind sleeping in a cave. Pick your day to go; we had 50 French school children doing the same trip with a different company and they were noisy and probably scared away any animals (don't expect to see many).
Tour company?: I went through a tour company, they provided food and gear (sleeping bags, mats etc). Their trip included canopy walkway, night in jungle, village visit (which I opted out of) etc. You can also organise independently and get a guide from the wildlife office - I'd definitely do this if properly prepared, but the tour company for a night was fine. Wouldn't use NKS - their local rep was rude and unhelpful and other operators in town can- after negotiation- offer a cheaper price.
Fees: 1RM to get into the park (flat fee however many days), 5RM for a camera. When you enter the park you need to declare numbers of plastic bags, clothes etc ostensibly to ensure you bring out what you take in. But the process doesn't work, is too heavy and they didn't check us on the way out anyway - best to confidently say what you have even if a bit inaccurate rather than spend fifteen minutes going through your stuff trying to make sure you get it exactly right.
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