Ryokans are expensive. Tokanso was a little over 200 a night for two people. Its a nice enough place, with decent size rooms and clean enough as well, but nothing to write home about. I can see tho how they can be expensive tho, breakfast and dinner are pretty filling with lots of food and a great variety and actually quite good. You get your moneys worth and its a good value. Also, I'd recommend taking breakfast and dinner at a ryokan as there's not many options in nikko. However I wish I would've spent more for a nicer place. Tokanso is old, lots of old outdated fixtures, lots of fluorescent lights as well.
The onsen is pretty good. There's a "family" room which can be reserved for private use if you'd like to soak with your better half. Soaking is a big part of staying at the ryokans in nikko and necessary after all the walking you do.
Thinking about it more tho, the location is awesome. No need to buy the expensive bus pass as Tokanso is right next to Toshogu and the national park. The area that Tokanso is in is also excellent for walking.
The staff is very nice and helpful. They do not speak much English but that doesnt matter much as you can always get along well enough.
In the end, if 200 a night for two people is all you got to spend. Its a good value. If you can spend more tho, do it.
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