We had read a lot about Ani, an ancient city near the Armenian border, and were expecting to be impressed. Depite the heat of a late July day, we very pleased to spend a couple hours exploring historic, partly ruined churches and other building scattered across the open steppe. Some builidngs were right on the edge of the gorge serving as the boundary between Turkey and Armenia, and we felt the cool breeze coming off the water of Arpa Cayi. Signs were informative, but it was helpful to also refer to our Lonely Planet guide. Nestling Crag Martins added to the atmosphere in an ancient mosque, and a large grasshopper along one of the trails was a surprise. Only a few other visitors shared the site with us, so it was easy to think back to bygone days.
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