If you stay in I ubud, stay on hanuman street. It is very central and quiet. It is truly Balinese. It is a residential street and every house has its own temple at its entrance. All the hotels are on alleys that lead into the fields. Chose a room with a balcony, the view is staggering. Hot tea in a flask is delivered each morning at 6 am. Dawn. Life starts here at dawn and ends at about 10 pm. You cannot sleep longer, the wild life wakes you up.
The staff are young, silent and very helpful. The rooms, huge but basic. No TV, but free wifi.
Places not to stay, unless you are hair braded hippie, is monkey forest road. Over exploited, with cheap hippie, new age junk. The beautiful 5 and 6 star hotels are in a beautiful hillside location, miles out. You will need a taxi every time you go in or out.
It is late November, and the monsoon is late. By 9.30 am it is in the high 30s it will stay that hot until around 7 pm. The humidity is also 100%. It is too hot to do much during the day.
There is classical dance somewhere every night, 80,000 rupiah. Dinner on average, 50,000 rupiah. The notes are very confusing and you have to watch money changers very carefully. They will rip you off if they can.
Ubud, is a lovely and very interesting destination, well worth a visit. You do not need to spend a fortune on accommodation. The kunang kunang is a brilliant value and perfectly located. I am in a standard room with balcony. The more expensive rooms on the front, look directly into the padi fields, the rest over the lovely pool. I am on the second floor and overlook it all and have the Swifts and swallows darting around me as I drink my dawn tea !
A happy traveller.