The San Fang Qi Xiang is wonderful! It is a bunch of restored (and rebuilt) old style buildings. The main street has shopping, and is hopping from mid-day to nighttime. The side alleys are better during the day, as the residences, gardens, and museums close up around 5/6pm.
The residences are amazing! We only went through a couple, and were facinated at each threshold and winding turn or courtyard.
The shopping is fun and ecclectic. If it is something you can find elsewhere, the prices are high, but we were able to bargain at a few places and found some unique things too.
The many traditional crafts are wonderful. A "must see" is the museum with active artisans in different areas. You can see them carve, cut, weave, laquer, and more. And a few things are for sale! Wonderful!
PS - There is a Starbucks, but before you sigh and wonder what is the world coming to, understand that it might win most charming Starbucks award! Now, the McDonald's ice cream window down the way could be somewhere else, although it had a long line every time we passed, so it probably won't be going anywhere.