The family who ran this guesthouse could not have been more helpful. From collecting me at the bus station, treating me to coffee on my first night, letting me sample the local Rakija, giving me the lowdown on recent history, they made me feel at home.
Yes, the hill leading up to the guesthouse is a little steep, but it's in a friendly residential area that isn't too much of a walk from the centre of the old town, with some interesting local buildings (the Sarajevo brewery, some small local mosques, an old disused railway station).
The rooms clearly haven't been renovated in years, but they're clean and have basic cooking and food preparation equipment, and there's a shared fridge, decent toilets, rudimentary bathroom. Internet comes via the family computer, so might not always be available.
I'd stay there again in a jiffy.