I’ve compiled a list below of everything that I wish I knew at the start of planning the Inca trail, and things I found really useful, which will hopefully shortcut the time for others researching and answer some of the questions!
Tour operator
I went with Alpaca Expeditions and they were great but you can search on TA and find many others with equally good feedback. The most important thing is to book well ahead to get your permit as there are only 500 a day (of which under half that amount is left by the time you factor in guides, porters and cooks). I tried to book in February for May / June and they were sold out as people pre book well ahead before Christmas. In the end I went in September as that avoided the really busy months of July and August, but still had good weather.
Alpaca looked after us really well, and the most incredible thing is the food they serve which is simply amazing in terms of taste and variety and you will certainly not go hungry at meal times. Boiled water is provided every morning, lunch and dinner so no need to buy any or use water purification tablets. I also liked them as they kept ahead of the pack by extending day 1 and 2, so we camped a bit further ahead of most other groups and this resulted in seeing very few other groups on the trail, other than Inti Sun Trek and Llama Path as they also seemed to take this approach. Alpaca also provided a toilet tent which provided a degree of cleanliness and certainly better than having to use the trees!
MOST IMPORTANT - Journey or Destination?
Is the reason for doing the Inca Trail about the grand finale of Machu Picchu? If so book an extra night in Agues Calientes so you have the following day at Machu Picchu. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, it’s highly likely that when you arrive after the Inca trial you really are too tired to fully appreciate it and you’ll be too rushed. You will probably only arrive into the citadel at Machu Picchu around 08:30 a.m. At this time there are already lots of people. Your guide will let you take some quick snaps and then you need to exit the site and check your backpack (if too large), grab a drink, visit the toilet, get your passport stamped (small stall right next to where you check your back packs), and then your guide will give you your tickets, and only then you enter formally through the turnstiles! This will be about 09:00 – 09:30 as there maybe queues to get in! By 09:30 - 10 the place really fills up from the tourists arriving by train. Your guide will probably give you a tour of the site and then most tour companies will have a group lunch in Agues Calientes before you catch your train at approx. 16:00. In reality you need to leave around 13.30, so you will never have time to do the site justice especially with the crowds (up to 2500 tickets a day). However, if you have an extra night, you then have lots of options. We climbed Huayna Picchu (more on that further down) and afterwards had lunch re-entering at 14:00. By 15:00 most people had left and the site was nice and quiet, so you could get great photos and soak up the atmosphere. This is the Machu Picchu that I remember. I would have felt short changed leaving that day only experiencing it with the hoards! The experience without the people is completely different. You can catch the bus down after 5 P.M. (with no queuing) and have a nice evening in Agues Calientes and an amazing shower J returning fresh into Machu Picchu the next day, clean, watered after a good night’s sleep. It also allows you to catch sunrise too if you catch the 05.30 a.m. bus up, as you arrive too late on the Inca trail to catch it. It also provides a bit of contingency on the weather as our first day was cloudy but the second day was bright sunshine! I can’t recommend this strongly enough.
Packing List & Weight
Passport (which must be the same as on your booking – they check), daypack, water bottles / camelback for 2 -3L, waterproof hiking shoes / boots (see later), sleeping bag (and liner if hiring one), headlamp, 3-4 t-shirts, 1-2 longs sleeve layers, 2 hiking trousers, undergarments for every day, fleece, warm jacket, comfortable shoes for wearing around camp, rain jacket & trousers, waterproof gloves, sun hat and warm hat, sunglasses, small quick dry towel (as there is an opportunity for a shower on day 3), toiletries including toilet paper, toothbrush, toothpaste, wipes, hand sanitiser, sunblock, mosquito repellent, lip balm, plasters / compede, ibuprofen, medications, ear plugs (a necessity as you will most likely have a snorer), menthol nose cream to clear airways (as altitude tends to bung up your passageways) and finally a camera! As you can see you will need to be prepared for all weather conditions as it will change depending on the time of day and what part of the trail. Day 2 up to Dead Womans pass was the coldest.
However, beware of how much this weighs. Although you can choose to have 7Kg porter allowance, 3-4 Kg is taken up by the sleeping bag and air matt (if you rent them), so it’s wise to weigh your kit before going otherwise you will be carrying more in your day pack than you would want! You may need to prioritise!
Footwear
I pondered over the question of shoes vs boots. Some of the advise included that 1 lb on your feet is equal to 5 lb’s on your back, so the first consideration is to go with the lightest footwear you can get. I went with boots and they gave me good ankle support (especially for downhill) and saved my toes. But they were significantly heavier than my shoes. Others in the group went with shoes and were fine. Perhaps if you are wary of your ankles go with boots but otherwise go with shoes. Also key is breaking in any new footwear, so make sure you have had several days walking so they are comfortable on the hike. The extra walking will also help with preparing for the long days walking that you will do on the trail. The more preparation you do the more likely you will enjoy the whole experience.
Altitude Sickness
This is the unknown and can affect anyone, regardless of age or fitness. Even previously being at altitude is no indicator. The best advise is to spend time at altitude before starting. At least 2 -3 days in Cusco will help and there is loads to see and do anyway. Making sure you stay well hydrated is also key. All the tour operators will carry an oxygen cylinder for emergencies. The most likely affects will be lack of appetite, difficulty sleeping and headaches. Once you get through dead womans pass on day 2 that's the highest point, and so any symptoms should ease after that. Just take it at your own pace, breath through your nose (tip from the guide and does work) and drink lots of water and the odd Cocoa tea!
Machu Picchu day & Sungate (Intipunku)
On day 4 be warned you will probably have to wake up at 3.30 a.m. and leave camp by 4:00 a.m. However, you then have to wait for up to 1.5 hours to start the final stretch of the hike at the final entrance gate as this does not open until 5:30a.m. once light. The reason for being up so early is to allow the porters to pack up the tents and kit and then do the hike back to the train station to catch the "locals" train. From the entrance it takes about 1.5 – 2 hours to the Sungate (Intipunku) and you will have to tackle the “gringo killer section” which comprises a final steep stretch of stairs. However, by the time of reaching the sungate the sun is already up, so be warned you don’t get to see sunrise over Machu Picchu! Another reason to do an extra night in Agues Calientes! However, seeing sunrise or getting good views from the sungate is very much at the mercy of the weather. When we arrived at the Sungate around 7:00 a.m. it was very cloudy and we could just about make out Machu Picchu. Although the cloud cover often clears by later in the day.
Tipping
Our team of porters and chef were simply incredible. When you see how much they carry and that they will pack up camp, pass you enroute and then have everything ready again when you arrive into camp brings it home. On the last night you tip the porters and chef as they leave early the next morning. Your guide will give you advise on how much to tip, but its then down to you as a group to decide. Our group collectively made sure that each porter got 80 Soles each, and the chef 150 Soles. The guide was then tipped on an individual basis. So make sure you have money on the trail for tips and also buying the odd drink / snack from the locals.
Huayna Picchu
This is the tall peaked mountain that you will see in the background of all the famous pictures of Machu Picchu. You will need to book your tickets well ahead of time as there are only 400 tickets a day, with 2 timed slots to go up either at 07:00- 08:00 and 10 -11:00. We did the second timed slot and started at 10:50 and were one of the last people to enter (as you need to sign in/out). Only when you get there do you realise how steep it is at around 400 Metres above the Machu Picchu citadel. At first it seemed quite daunting but we saw a lady coming back down slowly who was in her 60's who told us she had taken a couple of hours each way as she had been on the first slot. And that's the key thing, it is possible for all abilities, just do it in your own speed, it may just take you a bit longer, and if so better to book the first slot. There are multiple sections that are very steep and you have to crawl up using hands, using ropes and some sheer drops. You are rewarded when you reach the top as the views are fantastic as you are looking down on Machu Picchu and have panoramic views of the valley. Unless you suffer from vertigo, I'd truly recommend doing this, as when looking back at your photos standing in the classic Machu Picchu view, seeing Huayna Picchu in the background and knowing that you've climbed it always makes me smile!
Train back
I booked on the standard expedition train at 4.22 back to Ollantaytambo and I was pleasantly surprised that it was very comfortable, even with glass viewing panels in the ceiling allowing nice views. So in my opinion it would not be worth upgrading your ticket which some operators offer.
Often in life its how you experience something. Machu Picchu is truly amazing, and going through the 4 days on the Inca trail really makes it that more special. A true wonder of the world. Enjoy!
