The best thing about this train is the friends you can make. That's after moving your seats away from pushy tour guides, nosy nasty old lady travellers form Canada, and obnoxious spoiled teenage travelers who insist on putting all of their bags where your feet should be. We don't really recommend taking the Vistadome "upgrade", this is not a dome train as all travellers know it, the vista part is simply smaller windows along the roof line of the train which do not add much to the trip or view. Make sure your booker or you determine which direction your seats face, you want to be facing towards Machu Picchu going up, and towards Cusco going down. If you don't select your seats you may get seated at a 4 table with people you don't know across or next to you. We moved our seats going up, and met amazing folks, and rode down facing a great couple we met while hiking on Machu Picchu so all ended up ok. Also, the 13lb bag limit is a myth, some on ours trains had huge roller bags, the 40lb variety, and none of the train personnel cared. Note that they try to sell you anything and everything going both ways. The return trip is basically a bad cheap stage show with dancing, singing, and attempts at parading "alpaca" up & down the aisles for sale, plus pisco sours also for sale. Most of it is laughable, except for watching uneducated tourists buy "alpaca" which is clearly acrylic and wool or alpaca mixed, for inflated prices. When you get off of the train, you won't want to feel like you've been had, so keep your cash in your wallet. Also be careful about your belongings, things move around and so do you, smaller items can get lost or end up under the seats, and you will find it nearly impossible to retrieve them. This is an ok way to get to Machu Picchu, however keep your expectations real.
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