Tripadvisor says "guided tours are the best way" to visit this island- NOT SO! It is very easy to organize your own trip and then any money you pay will be going to the locals not to some tour agency. Ask your hostel or any taxi driver how to get to the pier where the boats leave for Amantani (it's the main pier in Puno, you can't miss it). Get there at 8 am or so (I believe the boat for Amantani leaves at 8:30 but better to be safe than sorry). Ask for the boat to Amantani. The boat ride costs something like 11 dollars round trip and is in a comfortable motorboat with a bathroom. It is a 3 hour ride but stops for 45 minutes at the Uros islands so you can see them, so figure on 4 hours for the ride total. At the pier in Amantani, host families wait to pick up tourists. You will be assigned to a family on arrival. You don't have to arrange any of this ahead of time. I stayed in a very comfortable candlelit guest room, attached to a family's house, and ate meals with the family. The food was simple but good. The island is incredibly peaceful and beautiful. I planned to stay one night but extended my stay for two nights because it was so lovely. During the day I went on some pleasant walks around the island. As a single woman, I never felt unsafe. It does help to speak Spanish, as noone speaks English there. I did not feel it was overly touristy. The only touristy area was at the top of Pachatata, where a lot of locals were selling crafts.
I think if you just went for a day trip you might be disappointed because it is a long boat ride to get there and it takes time to soak up the island's relaxing atmosphere.
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