We stayed with Pak Subandy and his family for a few days in Kersik Tuo just opposite the tiger statue. We had no intention of climbing the mountain but wished to see the national park and Subandy lived up to his high reputation by showing us this. Sitting in a makeshift catamaran built that morning amongst reeds and tiny islands with birds everywhere was marvelous. Subandy's enthusiasm for his feathered friends was infectious though we still reserve the right to shout at the seagulls near us in England. A long day followed by good food with a few cheap beers from the shop nearby .. even the passing traffic didn't sound quite as intimidating as when we first arrived. Another day spent in the foothills of Mount Kerinci getting wet and muddy seeking out wildlife. I have never seen anyone so transported with joy over discovering a single tiny feather as was Subandy which he told us belonged to some increasingly rare forest chicken.
Ok, its a long journey to get there, the accomodation is very basic but the food, welcome, scenery and service given by Subandy is wonderful.
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