There's nothing pretentious about Loaf On (in Mandarin, Liufu caiguan 六福菜館), located up a narrow set of stairs in a narrow street off the main drag in scenic Sai Kung. Only the cognoscenti know to come here, rather than eat in one of the joints right on the water with the big fish tanks. Your view will be of the laundry on the balcony opposite, not of the boats in the harbor, but you've come for the food, not the view, so that's not a problem, right? You'll also have to forget about high-class service. But the cuisine is totally fresh in terms both of ingredients and concept - you'll get dishes you will not have seen in any other place. Try the deep-fried tofu (silky and crunchy) or the seared peppers for some surprising tastes and textures. Be sure to book in advance.
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