The permanent exhibition on the story of Hong Kong is excellent. I particularly enjoyed the sections relating to the geology of Hong Kong and the post-1800 era history (and the Opium War). I have been surprised by the level of detail provided and have visited this exhibition twice although ran out of time on both occasions. You need to set yourself a minimum of 3-4 hours just for this exhibition. It really is a great way to gain an appreciation of Hong Kong before touring the specific cultural sites.
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