I recently spent nine days on Lamu and had the absolute pleasure of staying in the immaculate Subira House. My decision to travel to Lamu was a hasty one. I left Nairobi in search of some peace and quiet on the coast and intended to stay only in Ukunda and Malindi before returning to Nairobi. Once on the coast however, I realized I was in search of something more and began to look into ways to get to Lamu.
Admittedly, I did have apprehensions about traveling to Lamu with the ban only recently lifted and being a white, single female traveling alone, but the idea of this island paradise with only 2 cars and 2000 donkeys enticed me too much to keep me away! I had some communication with both Paul and Christina (the owners of Subira House) voicing my concerns before I arrived and their patient, encouraging words assured me that a trip to Lamu would be exactly what I needed.
Subira House is stunning. I could not have asked for a more beautiful, peaceful and magical (for lack of a better word!) place to stay. It was an absolute joy and luxury to call my home for the nine days that I stayed there (it should be noted that my original plan was to stay for only 3 days!).
Paul and Christina are gracious and welcoming hosts and it is clear they have taken time in choosing the best staff (incredibly attentive and kind) and the best chef (the food is superbly fresh and superbly delicious).
Not once in Lamu did I feel threatened or uneasy. I was completely comfortable walking around the streets by myself and found people to be warm and welcoming. I visited during the low season (end of May) and was one of only a handful of tourists on the island. I was recognized and remembered wherever I walked, which in some circumstances would make me quite nervous, but in Lamu circumstances only made me feel safer and more at home.
I highly recommend visiting the island of Lamu and I highly recommend staying at Subira House if you do. You will not be disappointed.
- Official Description (provided by the hotel):
- The charming and comfortable seven-bedroom historic 200 years old home has two beautiful gardens and plenty of cool terraces to relax and enjoy the tropical breeze as you accustom yourself to Lamu's gentle pace. Right in the middle of Old Lamu Town.Meals on request.Wine licence.Subira House,a 200-year-old coral stone house was built by the governor under the Sultan of Zanzibar now carefully preserved by its Swedish/Dutch owners. ... more less
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