Above ground is all dusty, beige emptiness - crumbling terraced walls and modern workmen slowly clearing the remains of the ancient workmen's village. But inside the small tombs you suddenly get a vivid glimpse of the ordinary workman's vision of life after death. The tomb of Senefu the architect (subject of a recent BBC documentary) shows warm domestic scenes with his wife who'd died some years before. Very moving. Not as majestic as the Valley of the Kings but infinitely more human. Many thanks to our guide, Ahmed Abd el Hameid for sharing his passion for this place with us (contactable on royal firstname.lastname@example.org).