You have to love a place where a tomb has a mat in front that reads "welcome". From the store-bought kitchen tiles used for the floors to the odd collections of bric-a-brac, the final resting place of Bahadur Shah Zafar is an odd mix of historical interest and make-do-and-mend practicality. It's nice to be there to hear someone sign the adhan - although we didn't say anyone pray - but 20 minutes will exhaust most visitors' interest.
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