La Portada offers great accommodation and amazing food close to the Tierradentro archaeological sites. The lodgings are quite new in big rooms with private bathrooms at very reasonable rates. The room/bathroom was spotless and the beds super comfortable. What really makes it great are the owners, they make you feel right at home. The food in the restaurant is lovingly prepared and plentiful, I imagine it's the kind of food Colombian grandmothers prepare for their families. Leonardo knows the sites very well and gives great advice on how to make the most of your time there. A bit of a trek to get there but worth the effort.