Unless you have several days to tour Jerusalem, I highly recommend getting a licensed, experienced Jerusalem guide. My wife and I visited Jerusalem in April 2013 and thoroughly enjoyed Zel and the city. First, Zel tailors the tour to your wish list, paces the tour to match your preferences (speed up? need a break?), and will use his car if the tour takes you around the outskirts of the old city (it is bigger than it looks on a map and the car is a nice relief from all the walking). If you happen to tour on a Saturday, the city is blissfully traffic free. But important to us, Zel was fluent on the issues we wanted to hear about: the political, religious and archeological history of the city; the evolution of the city as a religious and regional political center; the twists and turns of the relationship of the many peoples who have lived and continue to live in the city; and a thorough discussion of the challenges of a city with a nominally separate east and west. Zel also arranged a quick tour of Bethlehem for us (Israelis are not allowed in Bethlehem, so he handed us to a West Bank guide, who then returned us to Zel). Zel does his touring in an easy-going, thoughtful, and memorable way. He is a well travelled Aussie, so what would you expect? Let him pick the lunch spot! I recommend Zel for travelers of any religious affiliation.
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