This truly ancient site lies a few miles outside Ashgabat in the foothills of the mountains, the other side of which lies Iran. To our surprise the fortress has not been unduly Disneyfied and our knowledgeable and enthusiastic academic guide brought the place alive for us in terms of what an important and busy city it must have been over two thousand years ago. The labelling and information provided is not very good, so you would be well advised to organise a guide, but the place in striking just as it stands with a dramatic location in the desert and the nearby mountains. What a contrast to the marble follies of Ashgabat that you can see from the Fortress itself.