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Review of Pamir Highway

Pamir Highway
Ranked #3 of 60 things to do in Dushanbe
Certificate of Excellence
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Owner description: The Pamir Mountain range is part of the Western Himalaya and features several peaks over 7000m. The terrain is diverse from towering peaks to high altitude desert plains and climate conditions can vary from +35C to -40C depending upon the time of year. The Pamir Highway follows paths forged long ago by the ancient Silk routes, when that precious commodity travelled from China to European and Arabian markets and traded goods returned in its stead. Legacies of those forgotten times can still be seen with cliff top fortresses and ancient caravanserais. The highway winds over 2000km from Samarkand in Uzbekistan through Dushanbe (capital of Tajikistan) and the Pamir mountains to Osh in Kyrgyzstan and then on to Bishkek (capital of Kyrgyzstan) through the Tien Shan mountain range. The peoples of Central Asia hold hospitality as a value of great importance and travellers are warmly welcomed whether the visit is planned or otherwise!
Level Contributor
40 reviews
15 attraction reviews
common_n_attraction_reviews_1bd8 49 helpful votes
Reviewed July 29, 2011

We took a trip to this amazing part of the world with "The Traveller" - the ex-British Museum travel company now owned by Steppes. We travelled from West to East as recommended in a previous review and benefitted generally from the slow acclimatisation. Unfortunately we were told at the last minute that the route into Tajikistan via Penjikent was not open and that we would have to enter from Tashkent to Khojand and the Dushanbe. This involves some very high passes, inspiring scenery, but hairy bends and drops (not for the faint haearted and not the best introduction!).

There is only one current guide to Tajikistan and the Pamirs - a new edition is due shortly. Distances travelled are long. Many sites are remote. A good local guide is essential - particularly for visiting historic sites, Each place we went had some fascinating things to see. In Khojand, preparations were underway for an anniversary - look out for the statue of Lenin being spruced up and surrounded by a beautiful park. The museum in Dushanbe was very rewarding and clear - once we were able to explore it by ourselves. The tour took us to the south with the Amu Daryr River and to the area where the spectacular Oxus treasure (a British Musem highlight) was discovered. Then we travelled east and the scenery got more and more dramatic, the towns and villages smaller and smaller, and the imagination began to run riot on what it must have been like 2000 years ago when camel and donkey trains took goods on one ot the most difficult of the many Silk Routes from China to the west. And then, there we were! On the opposite side of the river was Afghanistan! And a pack horse train taking goods along minute narrow paths cut into the side of 1000ft+ cliffs - just as they had always done! Absolutely the highlight of my trip.

We stayed, as previous reviews say, in homestays - pretty basic. Sadly - presumably because we were on a group tour, we got little chance to make contact with the home owners or their families. A pity that, because as we have found in previous countries, it is very interesting and instructive.

The High Pamirs were desperately bleak and, even with vast subsidy from the Aga Khan Foundation, very poor and down trodden. But they made up for that with spectacular mountain scenery - snow capped peaks and rushing water wherever one looked. And, as a highlight of a different sort, we moved from 30C heat to minus 5C snow and had to help push the tour bus up the hill!!

Getting out of the country towards Osh was a bit of a problem - and if you want to play safe, you will need special travel insurance for the small sliver of Kirghistan in which travel is not advised by the FCO.

Over the past 15 years, I have been travelling, with tour companies, across as much of the Silk Roads as is "safely" possible. Sadly, this journey was marred by poor preparation and information from The Traveller and a local guide who provided little background information about his country and its historical sites. But..

Go! Tajikistan is an unknown very poor part of the ex-Soviet Union and needs to be better known. Great scenery. Fascinating sites. And an insight into life as it has been led in that part of the world for thousands of years. But do choose your tour company and guide carefully.

Visited May 2011
21 Thank deadbeatdave
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.
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Royal Tunbridge Wells, United Kingdom
Level Contributor
172 reviews
24 attraction reviews
common_n_attraction_reviews_1bd8 90 helpful votes
“The Pamir Highway is the Karakoram of 50 years ago”
Reviewed July 23, 2010

This route is one of the three major 'Silk roads' that cross the Himalaya but is also the least known amongst western travellers. It also benefits from being the least well developed and, so, has little vehicle traffic on it making for a much enhanced journey (assuming that your behind and vehicle suspension can cope with the bumpy ride...).

Start in the west and travel east - the journey is then much more gradual and the chances of altitude sickness are greatly reduced. The road starts in Dushanbe (capital of Tajikistan) and ends in Osh (Kyrgyzstan) although there is a strong incentive to carry on through to Bishkek (the route through the Tien Shan mountains is also incredible).

There are several choices of particular route from Dushanbe onwards, including diversions down to the Whakan corridor. Much of the first part of the journey hugs the Afghan border and provides a contrast in travel styles - the Afghan side has a shepherd's path that undulates under, over and along near vertical cliffs for over a hundred kilometers.

A noteable stopover is Khorog but in between are many small hamlets that will provide accomodation in 'home stays' - very basic but providing a real outlook on local life and the way things have been for centuries. This area is also an anthropologists and linguists dream with a huge variation in ethnic heritage diversity that seems to have been time-bubbled in different valleys. Genuine blonds and redheads are not uncommon.

Enough of this - you get the idea. Go and check this out for yourself.

16 Thank scud56
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.

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