I had been trying to get someone to take my husband and me on a tour of the old part of this very old city for some time, but I had little success. Then, I heard about the Urban Study Group's walking tours. We have been on two tours so far. Tours are 3-1/2 to 4 hours and cover about 5 kilometers of the back alleys and small streets that wind through the densely populated area. Walking is really the only way to see some of the more interesting historical sites. You will visit sites dating from Mughal Empire to the British Raj to contemporary Dhaka. Old Dhaka is the recycling center of the entire country. The workshops recycle everything. It is quite amazing to see.
Taimur is well versed in the history as well as the architecture and is a sincere advocate of preserving Bangladesh's historical buildings and monuments. He brings maps, copies of illustrations and drawings from museum collections, and computer-generated reconstructions of what the ruins may have looked like when they were whole. The tour is well worth the 3-4 hours of time you invest in it.