In visit after visit, Wat Lok Molee proves to be my pick for the most beautiful above-ground Wat in greater Chiang Mai. It has an abundance of history, dating to the 14th century, with its chedi built in the 16th century. Its Wiharn is a powerfully sweeping collection of layered Lanna-style shake roofing hovering weightlessly over a serenely quiet wood-columned interior with amazing paintings of events in the life of the Buddha. Recent whitewashing of the architectural filigree outside has improved its look. But even beyond the wiharn's beauty and the imposing chedi behind, it is the local activity of this Wat that attracts me most. It is the site of frequent classes of novice monks, attracts commuters stopping in before and after work, and is the neighborhood center for festivals. It has many classrooms and ante buildings worth discovering, and even a place to sit and play checkers with a nonagenarian monk who always wins (don't fall for it when he says "Oh! Look over there!"). This is classic Lanna architecture, in a bysy happy neighborhood, and never feels like the grand museums that some of its more popular cousins can become. Come here to find a peaceful nook in the city, or to wash the Buddha up the chedi during a happy time celebrating with locals. Either way, Lok Molee is an upliftiing experience worth your time.