It's not just the park, but it's the area around the park that is truly old time Bangkok. I went late afternoon and it was so quiet. You could easily feel you were in another world. It was perfectly quiet and this is not easy to find a place in BKK that is so tranquil. Walk around the area ouside the Park as well. As you leave the Park go right and at the first intersection, go right again....and then walk to the main street. Here you can turn around and return, but you will have seen a part of BKK that few do.
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