This big complex is a must-see. Only half an hour from Kathmandu, the temple is full of old shrines and temple buildings and populated with monkeys and holy men. At the main temple complex by the river, you can watch locals perform funeral ceremonies where the dead are washed with the water of the holy (though horribly dirty) river and then cremated on the river banks. It's a humbling experience to watch.
Up the big stone steps on the hillside there are numerous stone shrines and at the top yet more, plus more temple buildings. You can also walk from here to Bodnath stupa (the Lonely Planet guidebook has walking instructions). If you arrive before 9 in the morning you can see more locals going about their worship and ceremonies, before the tourist crowds arrive. Allow a few hours for exploring the whole site.
There are hundreds of monkeys in this temple but beware, some are aggressive - I was actually attacked by one for no reason other than staring at it! Also do not carry open food if monkeys are around, they *will* try and take it off you!
An amazing place for both sights and culture, it's a crime not to visit this if you have more than a day or two in the Kathmandu area.
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