We decided to go it alone with this trip as we had heard it could be done. We got a 'grande taxi' from town. This was hard to find (a mini taxi took us, we think it was rue oqba-Ben nafaa) but worth, the journey there was 60 dirham for two of us, squashed onto the front seat. This was done in two parts, the first taxi dropped us at a junction about half way there. The final destination, if you want the waterfalls, is a town called setti fatma.
When you get there its easy enough to follow the crowds to the cascades (possibly worth a guide if you're not as agile as you once were, but plenty of elderly women in burkhas managed it when we were there) and to arrange a taxi back.
The scenery and escaping the city was lovely. Great day trip out.
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