We stayed at the Hotelito Perdido on the Lampara River, just a couple of hundred yards off the main river, and this proved to be a really good base for exploring the river. We spent one morning kayaking around the vast network of lagoons that form part of the sanctuary for manatees and other wildlife; and on another day we kayaked up the Lampara to the end and walked from there to a beautiful waterfall and swimming hole. We were about seven kilometres upstream from Livingstone. The boat rides from roughly where we were to Livingstone, though the gorges, are great--absolutely beautiful scenery.
Livingstone itself strikes me as a dump and very unpleasant, with drunks out and about from about 10am onwards. Guidebook writers tend to find this sort of thing 'authentic,' bless their pointed little heads. Rio Dulce, on the other hand, is treated very dismissively. I can't imagine why. It has a lively main street with market stalls, a striking bridge spanning the river, and some lovely properties up and down near by. I don't know anything about where one would stay there, but I'd rather stay there than in Livingstone any day.
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