Take the train. Rather than booking through Cubacan just go to the train station around 9 am and get your tickets (10 cuc) and enjoy the very scenic ride, with two stops: 'Iznaga' the site of the tower overlooking the oldsugar cane plantations (45 mins, time for a climb to the top!); then on to Casa Guachinango, the old hacienda where you can have lunch and listen to "Rumores", musica campesina...

Book the train ride at Cubanacan (on Calle Simon Bolivar) and take a relaxing trip to the Valley, a hour outside Trinidad. The train isn't that fast but quite comfortable and completely open. There is a bar in it as well.

At the village there is a tower which can climb to view the valley and mountains. The village has a tourist market and a large building where you can have a drink and something to eat.

The only disappointing part of the organized train trip is that after the village the train takes you to a restaurant, which isn't that interesting at all. You can do some horse riding here though.

I would recommend getting a guided tour of the Valle from Cubancan in Trinidad for 12 CUC per person, I would say it's the best deal you can get. The bus takes you to vista of the whole valley while the guide explains the whole history of the sugar mill valley. The main site is a village Manaca Iznaga where you can find a huge colonial casa along with a watchtower which used to be the tallest building of 19th century Cuba. Used to guard slaves working on the plantations of course. On the other hand, you'll be constantly bothered by people selling everything, embroidery, dolls, things made of straw, etc. Then you go to Guachinango ranch which has an old casa and a mariachi band, however nothing that much to see there. Overall it's a nice trip to get to know this part of history of the island.

However I would strongly suggest not taking the train. It's a waste of time as the train moves really slowly so especially on a hot day it's quite a torture. Guys from our casa went by train and were quite angry they did as it was painstakingly slow. Oh, by the way, entrance to the vista was free, at least for us, even though tour guide says they charge 1 CUC. Manaca Iznaga is free but you pay 1 CUC to be able to ascend up the watchtower and Guachinango is free.

We took in the Valle de los Ingenios as part of the train excursion from Trinidad. As a day’s diversion it was enjoyable but no one item was spectacular. The train has 2 open windowed cars with a bar and is pulled by an old Russian diesel-hydraulic engine. (Forget about there being a steam engine.) If you ask nicely you may get invited to sit in the cab and blow the whistle. At the famous lookout tower there are lots of tourist stalls with insistent sellers and a restaurant. I enjoyed the sugar cane juice from the stall at the train station. At the end of the line is a quiet restaurant in an old colonial country home where you may be able to get a little horseback ride.