Spurgine is all about doughnuts. Spurgine is nothing to do with doughnuts. That's the fun paradox at play in this soviet era bastion of batter.
You'll want to come here for the doughy delights on offer (although possibly not for the British Rail era coffee). There's curd-cheese filled 'Zagareliai' doughnuts, Jersey Wonder style doughnuts, savoury mushroom-filled doughnut pasties, herby meat filled doughnuts, jammy doughnuts, salty, sweet, strawberry, snozberry (whoever heard of a Snozberry) and icing-sugar dusted doughnuts, there's even doughnuts with extra doughnut...
Yes, it's all about the doughnuts. (And the soup which was a tasty broth with a chicken leg submerged in it like a miniature poultry shipwreck.)
But then Spurgines is also nothing to do with doughnuts. It's about the 50s/60s Soviet-style interior, the colourful, abstract wooden art on the walls, the bustling, brusque but beaming waitresses (well they smiled when I tried ordering in Lithuanian!), the old metal stools, the industrial eastern bloc kitchen that reveals itself every 30 seconds or so as another tray of golden globules is carried through to the counter tops.
It's a reminder of simpler, older times. Days out with the folks. A doughnut and a catch up with friends. A pasty and a coffee with grandparents. This is pure fluffy nostalgia for many locals and they seem to adore it - whether they have a BMW and Bang & Olufsen or just a good coat and boots to their name.
Especially, as my Lithuanian friends remind me that although it's an SSSR-style cafe - this is Lithuanian cuisine.
Of course, it's both the doughnuts and the history that make this a vital watering and doughnut-eating hole on your trip down memory lane in Kaunas.
Time travel exists and it's got nothing to do with flux capacitors and Michael J Fox.
It's why locals love it. It's why you'll love it. So come and bend your knee (and mind) to this totemic temple of tempura!
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