I hadn't been to the oldest part of Praga for years, so I took advantage of a free Saturday summer afternoon to go for a stroll. Having read how Praga was up and coming, artistic, bohemian, etc., I was expecting things to have moved on from how I remember the district 10-15 years ago.
But the reality is that very little has changed. Apart from a cluster of restaurants and trendy bars on Zabkowska Street, the area is as poor and run-down as it always was. Pre-war tenement houses in a terrible state of repair, locals drinking beer on old sofas in building courtyards, broken pavements...
Having become accustomed to the Warsaw of glitzy shopping centres, modern trams, office buildings, gated communities and fashionable bars, it was a shock to realise that Praga has stood still, apparently forgotten and overlooked.
That evening I was sharing my experiences with a friend who was born and grew up in Praga. My friend said he was happy such places still exist in Warsaw, as they have real character, so I reminded him that it was easy for him to say that as he has moved on in life and isn't trapped in that environment. He took my point!
Is Praga dangerous? Walking around on a sunny afternoon I did not feel in danger, but was wary and trod cautiously. I explored a few old building courtyards, but did so discreetly and avoided places where people were drinking beer. Just a matter of commonsense really, as in any other big city.








