After visiting the sites Jewish Ghetto and Mila 18--both reduced to rubble in WW2--it was amazing to find this massive historic cemetery still standing. The acres of tombstones take your breath away. We were there on a sunny fall day; the shadows and falling leaves gave the cemetery a solemn beauty. We couldn't help but meditate on the generations that had called Warsaw home for centuries but whose bloodlines ended in the concentrations camps. We did not mind the entry fee; the small Jewish community left in Warsaw certainly cannot maintain the cemetery on their own.