The old centre is remarkably intact, and very pretty, a number of the Curches are world class, with good food, bars and a thriving classical, jazz and contemporary music scene, away from the main square prices are very modest and generally better quality. It is also about 80 minutes drive to Auschwitz- Birkenau, which I think everyone should probably see once, has excellent guides and does not try to 'dramatise' what is left. Krakville Tours were excellent.
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