Na Varandach enjoys a quiet, if somewhat desolate location, which helps it from being crowded by packs of tourists albeit it would be a stretch to call it a hidden gem. The rather run down exterior gives rise to a modernly furnished bar style restaurant with a small indoor terrace which is a refuge from the smoky, alcohol infused atmosphere inside. We had no reservations but were promptly seated outside.
Not being a beer drinker myself I can only trust the impressions of my family members that the stuff is very potable, with the unfiltered variety being a good choice for a more sturdy drinker and the mix of light and dark kinds a very lady-appropriate choice. The menu is, as would be expected, heavily geared towards keeping the beer steadily flowing, although there are thankfully a few lighter options available. We had the beer cheese for starters which was flavourful and not overwhelmingly salty. The goulash was almost Flemish in style with a clear bitter backdrop of the gravy well balanced by the airy bread dumplings. Meat was lovely and tender and not at all greasy. Chicken salad featured fried chicken pieces coated in seasoned bread crumbs and arranged in a small basket of melted Parmigiano (of sorts). Again, the dish was well prepared and creatively presented.
The service staff are the main weak point of this restaurant. Rude and arrogant sums it up nicely. I understand this is a 'high-throughput' establishment but they really make you feel as if you're on a rolling band. This takes away from the enjoyment considerably. The attitude whereby you're supposed to feel apologetic for "disturbing" the waiter by lagging with your choices or not completing the entire order in one go is very annoying.
Overall however, with good food at reasonable prices in a setting not reminiscent of a stag party hangout - Na Verandach is a great choice for a casual meal in Prague.