An old, dark, cathedral of a building, all high ceilings and polished interior, houses a fine red meat temple in central Sydney. The staff are attentive without being intrusive, led by a sommelier who introduced a wine list that will intimidate those not used to more than a fleeting selection of vino. Dozens of pages cover an exciting selection of Australian wine, and local advice will point you to something that suits your palate. It's not all Australia, though, with plenty of French, and a selection of other countries represented, included some excellent (and well-priced) Argentinean malbecs. And that was appropriate, as the wagyu sirloin was as good as any steak I've had outside Argentina: soft, rich, and welcomely decadent. The unavailability of the wagyu ribeye (my first choice) saw a complimentary round of wagyu fillet sliders by way of apology, and couple with a lovely prawn and goats cheese tortellini, and an exquisite warm quail salad, made for the best meal we had in a week in Sydney. Granted, it's a very expensive night out, particular if you the wine list justice, but it won't be a meal you forget any time soon.
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