Board early for a seat at the front of the ferry and rug up. You'll join all the international tourists, many of whom will be defeated by the cold or the spray when that happens. Hardier souls are in the box seat for magnificent views. If you go to Manly during the day and return at night, the city looks magnificent as you return to Circular Quay.
Manly itself has that real holiday feel with surf clubs to change in if you go for a swim and lots of choice in restaurants and cafes or fish and chips by the beach on a park bench. We try to go over every time we're in Sydney
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