We dined at Govino last weekend when they had just launched their new menu. This lifts their kaizen experience still further and should not be missed.
We began with tempura oysters served in a glass dome pumped full of wood smoke, with a fresh slaw of radish and apple. This combined the silky fresh-smoke taste of the oysters, whose tempura batter remained crunchy, with a lovely fresh apple tang. Next came duck on a red cabbage, pear and grape salad. The duck was superbly cooked and the salad was a luscious accompaniment. These courses were great but the "wow" really arrived with the braised beef cheek. This was served with soft polenta and a deeply rich port jus and was topped with parsnip crisps. Truly a dish that left you wanting more and prepared to lick the plate clean!
For dessert we shared a mulled wine poached pear which came with sauce anglaise and was served on a thin, crisp and delicious shortbread round.
This place serves food that would put most city establishments in the shade. It continues to challenge expectations and thoroughly deserves its success. Friends who spend time with us at Cooks Beach can't believe the quality of the food in a relaxed beach location.
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