Last year, I was staying at the port at Fur and decided to come up here for dinner. It was recommended to me as 'the pancake house'. That dinner made me decide to visit the island again and come and stay here (it doubles up as a bed and breakfast called Furisk Ferie). They do indeed serve delicious buckwheat pancakes with various fillings, both savoury and sweet. The one with goat cheese is to die for. They also serve delicious home made cakes with plenty of chocolate. But frankly, although the pancakes and cakes are good enough to drag you up here (I was on a bike, quite the pedalling), there is something else that totally transforms the experience: first of all, the view. You get an uninterrupted access to all the island and the coast. You see the landscape changing colours as the clouds move on. You see the dusk falling while you sip your (excellent) red wine. And then you have the garden where you can roam and play with its various secrets. But above all, you have the most accommodating owners who make you feel absolutely immediately better than home. They treat all their guests so nicely and intimately and helpfully, giving out advice and free refills and more wine and so much love that one has to return. And when one returns, is treated, if possible, even better. So this year I returned and stayed for a whole week. This place is called "on god's field" and, you know what?, that's exactly what it is.
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