The beautiful small inn, Le Ghiande, was the most authentic, heartwarming, and most enjoyable place we stayed in our wonderful three week June vacation in Italy. At 480 euro for a six night stay in a studio that slept three and came with a kitchen, modern bath, patio with an eagle's nest view looking down at Montepertuso and up at the craggy cliffs connected by the Path of the Gods, and a breakfast of homemade tarts, cakes, croissants, juice, fruit. cereal, yogurt, and cappuccino, it was also the best value! A stay in this approximately 500 year old farmhouse which originally belonged to our host, Salvatore's grandmother, is best for the reasonably fit traveler, as there are 100 steps up from the road to the long, terraced entryway, although Salvatore and his cousin, Marco will cheerfully carry your bags up the stairs. You will be greeted by the aroma of lemon trees as you walk past a glider swing near the fountain, where we spent our first hour gazing down at an impressive soccer game played by accomplished teens in the schoolyard far below. "We would be pleased to have you join us for pizza tonight," said Salvatore, not knowing that the tradition was to gather together at tables under a grape arbor with three generations of around 20 of his friendly relatives and whatever guests were in attendance every Saturday night for what turned out to be a veritable ten course feast. We were served six different kinds of impeccably cooked thin crust pizzas browned to perfection in the outdoor wood fired oven, endless trays of cheeses, meats, and salads, and in case we had any room left, homemade tiramisu and limoncello! Welcome to Montepertuso! One day we walked the 1,000 steps down to Positano passing lovely stucco houses with Moorish arches, many awash with glowing purple bougainvillea and the aroma of honeysuckle. Most of the time we relied on the15 minute local bus to take us to Nuevo Chiesa, or the top most stop in Positano, a butterfly shaped town built on the side of a cliff, and we would walk down the rest of the way. We have stayed in two different small hotels in Positano on a previous trip, but we much preferred staying at Le Ghiande, closer to the lives of real people. The beds were hard, as is typical in much of Europe, but our backs rebounded when treated to a morning shower with a magnificent shower head. Holding on for dear life on the local bus around 6 hairpin turns is not for the faint of heart, but it became second nature by our final day.By that time the locals whom we would see on the busses every day would smile at us. Montepertuco also has some fine restaurants, the best among them being the elegant Donna Rosa and the more rustic Il Retrovo, both of which run cooking schools. As an added wonder, we happened to be there for two religious processions, one for Corpus Domini and another in honor of Saint Anthony, the village's patron saint, which came complete with the church's statue of Saint Anthony being carried by five strong men up and down the sloping streets as the whole town seemed to turn out to join the procession. Children in long, white robes, men and women passed by engaged in fervent acappella singing. There was also a brass band, and fireworks in which a likeness of Saint Anthony burst forth over the cliffs and then whirled down towards the Tyrhannian Sea. I have not seen any town lovelier than Positano, but as so many others seem to agree, it made good sense to stay in this tranquil refuge high above it with the most outstanding views of Positano around each bend. We were glad that we elected not to rent a car, as being forced at times to back up on steep, windy roads as the bus pressed upward and onward looked insanely stressful. Once we mastered the bus schedule, getting around by bus was great fun and forced us into a slower gear, as we learned to enjoy waiting and watching the world go by--slow travel, or the vacation from the vacation, after experiencing countless cultural sites in Rome and the Tuscan art cities. As a cherry on top of it all, Salvatore gave us a gift of limoncello and drove us to Positano so that we would be sure to make our connection to Sorrento.
- Official Description (provided by the hotel):
- Dipped in the green of the Coastal Amalfitana and far away from every noise the Ghiande in an ancient restructured colonic house and fine furnished equipped of all the comfort. ... more less
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- Also Known As:
- B&B Le Ghiande Montepertuso, Italy - Positano