When in Rome... (or elsewhere in Italy) one can--politely--ask locals in Italian for information. Italians will not feel awkward about this. So, asking someone for a good place for eating fish will generally produce information one can trust. This is how our attention was drawn to Gusmano, which is located at the southern end of Viareggio.
The food was superb: the pasta with shrimp and truffle was a dream, as was the simple "caprese" entree with very tasty ingredients. The Muller Thurgau offered as the house white was excellent, certainly in combination with the meal.
Gusmano (and his wife) were quite friendly (and patient) and will no doubt welcome (more) tourists if they behave as courteously as they do.
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