I'm not sure what was better - staying in an 18th century palazzo that manages to combine original frescoed ceilings with multi-jet showers, or a proprietor who I'd actually count as a friend I'd come to visit on my next trip. The phenomenally helpful Luisa was a pleasure from start to finish, and staying at the Palazzo Carletti made us feel like we had our own apartment in Montepulciano.
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