I enjoyed walking through teh old town in the evening and after dark- makes for reallly intreguing photos and a surreal atmosphere. Most things were closed, as you might xpect, but I did think there would be more wine bars and restarants open on a weekday after 7pm. We easily found lots of restaurants and other tings open on Friday and Saturday night, and thing dont start hopping until after about 10, but on a nice wednesday or thursday there was not much to do or too many places to eat or drink that were open after 8, and those places that were open seemed to close the outside seating even though it was nice outside- so we had to sit inside in smoke filled rooms to eat dinner.
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