Our final night in Reykjavik, a city we loved, my wife and I walked from our rental apartment on Vesturgata the mile or so on the harbor walkway over to the Sun Voyager sculpture, which we didn't want to miss. It was plenty atmospheric--an overcast night, light mist falling, the ships in the harbor and the lights of Harpa and the buildings along the shoreline close to us, all of them against the north Atlantic. We got to the sculpture about 10:30 p.m. and were the only ones there, a few cars on Sæbraut occasionally passing. The sculpture, a kind of skeleton of a large Viking boat, movingly evokes the seafaring life of Icelanders past and present. That evening immediately became a treasured memory.