Went to try this restaurant as it was recommended as the 7th best in Sweden by the whiteguide.se
Unfortunately it was not really there.
At 3000SEK for an evening for 2 the expectations are rather high.
The location is in the suburbs of stockholm in enskede-dalen in a quaint old pram factory - rather fun actually with only 4 tables open for seating. The interior is sparse and nordic with multicoloured paintings on the walls and the famous home-knitted doilies as tableware . Tasteful ? Maybe not - but at least different.
We had the middle-sized menu with 5 courses and the first serving came quickly to the table by the very friendly and helpful server.
It was mushroom season now so we would experience a lot of mushroom in tonights menu - something I looked really forward to.
However the first dish which contained som raw slices Portobello (Karl Johan) mushroom with each slice on a fried slice of onion with a dollop of lingon berry juice on a tiny mushroom puree drop was in fact the only sight of mushroom we saw the enitre evening.
The first course was nice but rather bland.
We had chosen the wine menu which I must say was a joy - in fact the highlight of the evening: A Vin Jaune from Jura to start with and accompagny the mushroom, followed by a lovely and flavourful Puligny Montrachet, a Fullbodied Lanquedoc Red, and finally a lovely Pinot Gris from Alcace with just the right amount of sweetness for the dessert.
The next dish was 4 tiny slices of fried zuccini with a lot of wood sorrel (for the acidity) and one leaf of raw zuccini flower. Again an very uninteresting dish which barely consisted of a mouthful.
I must say Im all for the New Nordic Cuisine, but this was a poor imitation. It seemed the chef really couldn't (or wouldn't) follow through on what this implies.
The next dish some 9-hour oven baked beetroot in burned butter and rose sauce. Nice actually but for some obscure reason accompagnied by a briefly oven baked tomato which was straight out of the shelves of the local supermarket it seemed.
The the 'main dish' : 4 tiny slices of undercooked duck which as placed on some seaweed puree and with a dollop of current juice, and some very simply fried cabbage leaves (4 of them) . Finally a dessert which was rhubarb icecream in rose-milk foam. Unfortunately the foam had separated and the result was some water with some lumps of rose flavoured white stuff on top of the not-very-sweet rhubarb icecream. Rhubarb is naturally acidic and therefore needs balance in whhat it is served with, and the rose-concoction did not do it.
To finish off some very nice 'Esmeraldacoffee' which was truely light and flavourfull with one tiny oatmeal like cookie with lingon in it.
All in all an experience which mostly reminded me of the fairytale of the emperors new clothes.
CLearly inspired by the wave of new nordic cuisine this evening the chef here unfortunately did not deliver on all that this entails. In stead it was a poor imitation of less than well prepared minute dishes (For reference Noma in Copenhagen serves the same size dishes , but their menu contains roughly 20 of those dishes for a full evening).
Service again was friendly and everyone helpful and cheerful, but when this restaurant closes at the end of the year to move to france I hope they will open their eyes and take note. They have a lot to learn....
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