Many people, when they hear of this site, will wonder if it's really worth a visit. For me the answer was very definitely "yes" - the walls and towers in particular, which completely changed my idea of ancient Greek military engineering. It was obviously far, far more advanced than I'd imagined.
What see now are is the city built by the great Epaminondas after the battle of Leuctra, in which the Spartans were defeated and their centuries-old hegemony over Messenia finally broken, as a stronghold for their now-free Messenian helots, so that the Spartans couldn't take them back. So the site has historical and moral interest too.
The peace and quiet and the pure air are bonuses. It's not far from Kalamata, and not difficult to find. The road's good.
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