Winding, picturesque streets, views of the traditional port barges on the river and the stunning bridge, lots of casual sidewalk cafes on the waterfront--what's not to like? This is a perfect place to while away the afternoon drinking a Superbock and watching the river and foot traffic. There are good informal restaurants and some really nice ones, a bit more upscale. Navigating the streets down to the river can be a little challenging--some areas are steep with cobblestones, and be very careful with the cars, which can whip around corners at high speed. It's wonderful to stroll around during the day, though--perhaps hiking from the Se cathedral down through the old neighborhoods and ending up on the riverfront. I've heard from locals that it's not the safest place at night, though, so I would not go out exploring alone after dark.
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